Chanel, Dior, and Schiaparelli Reclaim the Couture Runway


Courtesy of Dior

Since the devastating effects of the pandemic, the fashion industry responded responsibly, eschewing the fashion calendar, opting for virtual presentations, or hibernating altogether (only to surprise us with an IRL show). But as the world reopens, so do the runways. Couture fall-winter 2022 marks the first return of fashion week as a whole, with brands, editors, and influencers alike flocking to Paris to take it all in, in person. Cue dramatic music. This reentrance is opulent and optimistic, prepping us for real-life events to come. So far, designers are ticking all the boxes that haute couture is known for: lush textiles, handwoven details, extravagant venues, and wedding gowns with built-in disco balls.

Click ahead for ELLE’s favorite looks from Dior, Chanel, Schiaparelli, and more, and make sure to check back as we update our gallery as couture week continues.

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It’s safe to rely on Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry to bring opulence to couture. Known for his eccentric hand with garb favored by Gaga and the avant garde ilk, the end result always comes with a side of excitement. Gilded breastplates are contrasted by outrageous accessories, sleeves are bloated with hand-embroidered rosettes, and the closing wedding dress comes with a built-in disco ball.


Held at the Palais Galliera, City of Paris Fashion Museum, Chanel’s Virginie Viard took impressionism as inspiration, seen through the lens of vibrant tweed, dresses embroidered with water lilies, and sequins mimicking paint strokes. In true couture fashion, the show closed with a wedding dress. The Chanel twist? Margarat Qualley tossing her bouquet to the crowd.


Dior’s brand of couture made craftsmanship its main priority. Weaving and embroidery took precedence for Maria Grazia Chirui, seen in her collection as both tweed sets and delicately woven dresses. She continued the thread of Grecian gowns from her previous collections, now reworked in shades of slate and marbled browns.


Olivier Theyskens’ vision of couture is pared back compared to the ballgowns we’re used to associating with the season. Instead, his collection is an intimate night of dressing up, while still upholding all the attention to detail we expect from made-to-measure. Pearl embroidery trim micro dresses, crystal beading accentuate the body and snake outside the edges of suiting, and a surprise of an iridescent gown interrupts the runway.

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